Childhood Memory

Topic: I chose to create my pâtisserie around the pillars of breton gastronomy: Sablé breton, apple and buttermilk.

Flavors: Crumbly biscuit made with sablé breton and cocoa gaufrette, Chocolate cremeux infused with wild summer fennel, Apple mix  marinated in wild dune fennel, Whipped ganache  with farmer’s buttermilk, Apple coulis with wild dune fennel.

I looked towards my childhood to create this pâtisserie, which has very little added sugar, and is made low fat with seasonal and healthy fruits sourced with local passionate farmers.

I am the grandson of bakers from the center of Brittany (nobody ever made a Lorient cake as good as my grandmother’s). My parents were farmers. I spent my childhood on a farm around cows and fields. The smell of freshly cut hay in summer, the taste of dark wheat crêpes soaked in buttermilk, the memory of sablé breton that we eat with a warm coffee, all those are printed in my senses. As a child, my food was only sourced from the farm: butter, vegetables, apples from the orchard. All local.

Brittany is a region full of products and producers, and farmers turn more and more toward organic growing. Everything is just here to pick up, such as the wild fennel that I pick up on the wild sand dunes.

Cocoa Gaufrette

Ingredients Preparation
  • 31g
    chickpea juice
  • 31g
    icing sugar
  • 15g
    flour T65
  • 3g
    Plein Arôme
  • 8g
    churned butter 82% fat

Mix the chickpea juice.

Add the icing sugar, flour and Plein Arôme 100% cocoa powder.

Add melted butter and spread in the wanted shape.

Bake for 10 minutes at 180°C

Whipped Buttermilk Ganache

Ingredients Preparation
  • 187g
    buttermilk
  • 95g
    35% cream
  • 95g
    40% cream
  • 60g
    Zéphyr™
  • 27g
    invert sugar
  • 19g
    gelatin mass
  • 58g
    churned butter 82% fat

Melt the gelatin mass with cream butter and invert sugar.

pour on Zephyr 34% Chocolate and Cocoa Butter.

Add the buttermilk.

Apple and fennel coulis

Ingredients Preparation
  • 81g
    apple concentrate
  • 2g
    wild dune fennel

Mince the fennel and mix with the apple concentrate.

Apple Mix

Ingredients Preparation
  • 70g
    apple jelly
  • 70g
    apple concentrate
  • 140g
    apple pickles
  • 2g
    wild dune fennel

Mix the apple concentrate and the jelly.

Add the pickles and minced fennel.

Apple Pickles

Ingredients Preparation
  • 70g
    water
  • 70g
    sugar
  • 28g
    cider vinegar
  • 41g
    lemon juice
  • 4piece(s)
    lime
  • 0.75g
    wild dune fennel
  • 140g
    apple(s)

Boil all ingredients and pour on the diced apples.

Cling film and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Filter and leave to drain.

Apple Jelly

Ingredients Preparation
  • 57g
    apple juice
  • 10g
    lemon juice
  • 8g
    sugar
  • 1g
    325NH pectin

Centrifuge the apple to get the juice.

Heat the juices (apple & lemon)

At 60°C, add the mix of sugar and pectin.

Cook for a minimum of 2 minutes.

Cling film and cool down quickly.

Hay chocolate crémeux

Ingredients Preparation
  • 440g
    hay infusion
  • 51g
    invert sugar
  • 40g
    gelatin mass
  • 65g
    yolk
  • 138g
    Or noir Arouez 67.1% Cacao Barry
  • 76g
    Elysée (Lenôtre)

Heat up the infusion and pour part of it on the whisked yolks and inverted sugar (whitened).

Cook at 82°C and leave aside.

Add the melted gelatin mass.

Pour on Or noir Arouez 67.1% and Elysée 36% then mix.

Cling film and cool down quickly.

Hay infusion

Ingredients Preparation
  • 202g
    whole milk
  • 202g
    35% cream
  • 36g
    summer hay

Pour the hay in the mix of milk and cream at 80°C.

Leave covered to brew for 5 minutes out of heat.

Strain and weigh immediately.

Crumbly sablé

Ingredients Preparation
  • 130g
    Sablé Breton
  • 87g
    cocoa gaufrette
  • 44g
    Elysée (Lenôtre)

Crumble the sablé breton and gaufrette.

Pour the mix Elysée 36% and Cocoa butter on the crumble.

Spread in appropriate shape and place in the fridge.

Sablé Breton

Ingredients Preparation
  • 16g
    yolk
  • 32g
    sugar
  • 45g
    flour T65
  • 1g
    baking powder
  • 0.35g
    fleur de sel
  • 32g
    82% butter
  • 2g
    vanilla extract

Mix butter and sugar, then add yolks.

Add the mix: flour and baking powder.

Spread in a frame and bake for 15 minutes at 180°C.

Assembly and finishing

Put first the crumbly sablé and the chocolate round decor (cerclage).

Pipe the crémeux on top. Add in the middle the mix of apple and wild dune fennel.

Place a chocolate disc on top and pipe the whipped buttermilk ganache.

Dig the ganache with a round spoon and add the apple coulis in it and finish with decorations.

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